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For Brunello fans, it can be tough to see back past the stellar 2015 and 2016 seasons—but serious aficionados and collectors would be wise to go back a full decade to 2012. The 2012 season was a hot one, but unlike 2011, which saw a late heat spike, 2012 started warm—and that was crucial because…
“The First True Super Tuscan” Our sommelier buddies in Manhattan had prepped us at length on Tenuta di Capezzana’s storied Carmignano, “the first true Super Tuscan.” We knew thatCabernet Sauvignon was first planted in the tiny appellation of Carmignan almost 500 years ago; that it was probably Catherine de Medici, Queen of France, who had…
11 straight “3 Bicchieri” for Tuscan Bargain Red In Italy, nothing in the world of gourmet food and wine comes close to rivaling the influence of the Rome-based publication Gambero Rosso. Founded in 1986 by the late Italian writer Stefano Bonilli, a pioneer of the Slow Food movement, the magazine issues a highly anticipated, once-a-year…
2012 Terra Sancta Pinot Noir “Mysterious Diggings” … 92pts at the 45th Parallel They call it “Mysterious Diggings.” The setting is right out of “The Lord of the Rings.” The luscious wild-berry Pinot Noir seems more akin to Vosne-Romanée than Central Otago. Of all the under-$20 Pinot Noir discoveries of the last half-dozen years, this…
Spectator Wine of the Year Winemaker’s Forgotten Cabernet At $95 from the winery, this rare library release wine-club only Cabernet is just $49.99 per bottle—47% off. Why? There are good reasons you might not have heard of this remarkably powerful, pedigreed Napa Cabernet culled from the elevated Atlas Peak vines of Elkington Setty Ranch and…
The Prisoner and Matt Cline’s “CMZ” Since 1982, when he discovered the old vines of Contra Costa planted at the turn of the 20th century by Portuguese and Italian immigrants, Matt Cline has crafted luscious single-vineyard reds in the classical spirit of Paul Draper at Ridge Vineyards. Sixteen years later, a brilliant newcomer named Dave…
“Established 1885” but Going STRONG in 2016! The impassioned stories of the Italian and Portuguese immigrants who carved Zinfandel, Carignane, Mataro, Black Malvoisie, and Alicante Bouschet saplings into the white sands of Contra Costa have been well-documented on these pages. As many of the family patriarchs had been wine-grape farmers in the old country, on…
Homage to Spinelli Vineyard: A Note from the Founder A Note from the WineAccess Founder: Since 1992, I’ve tasted over 500 old-vine reds from winemaker Matt Cline. The wine that’s always most fascinated me is Matt’s ancient-vine Mourvèdre, the variety that’s responsible for my favorite wine of the southern Rhône, Beaucastel’s “Hommage à Jacques Perrin.”…
Ancient-Vine Handshakes on Bleached Delhi Sand In the 1980s, an aphid-like pest that had ravaged Europe at the beginning of the 20th century invaded Northern California. By 1990, nearly all of Napa Valley had been uprooted and replanted, decimated by Phylloxera. But as Old World winegrowers learned a century ago, vines planted in fine, sandy…
Matt Cline’s 2012 Zinfandel Evangelho Vineyard — “I took down the sorting table!” It was one of the more uncomfortable conversations/negotiations of the last seven years. Since 2009, we’ve championed Matt Cline’s 100-year-old vine Zinfandels, lauding them as the most extravagant in California. WineAccess members have loaded their cellars with Three Zins. In short-crop harvests…
2012 Tom Eddy Cabernet Sauvignon: “Shutting Down the Sorting Table” In early September 2012, we trekked the steep slopes of Atlas Peak and Diamond Mountain with Tom Eddy. Eddy has been crafting brilliantly elegant Napa Valley Cabernets for over 30 years. Still, the veteran winemaker told us, he had “never seen a growing season quite…
Vega Sicilia’s Bottled Lightning Moves West The news from today’s offer is not the “who,” but the “where.” Vega Sicilia is possibly the most famous winery in Spain. The first taste of Vega’s wine can be a life-changing experience — even the most experienced of tasters may find their definitions of great Mediterranean wine challenged,…
“But you should taste it now.” That’s what we’d say to critic James Suckling, who praised the “lovely balance” of the 2012 Viticcio Bolgheri DOC back when the wine was still a baby. But the way this Cabernet-dominant Bordeaux blend is showing after eight years in the cellar—with its heady nose of coffee, incense, and…
Cabernet-Blend From The Napa of Australia Many of the best Cabernet-blends from Margaret River (Australia’s answer to Napa Valley) reach further than $100. But this 2012 Voyager Estate “Girt by Sea” is an outlier, pulling serious weight at under-$20. James Halliday, Australia’s leading critic, had nothing but accolades to offer in his 94-point review, calling…
We were buying from and supporting this small, family-owned Sonoma operation back when they were making just two barrels of each wine and fermenting lots in makeshift containers because stainless steel tanks were too expensive. Today, their mailing list regularly buys up the winery’s entire production, because their Cabernets are held close to the hearts…
Passing Up Harlan, Striking Gold in Santa Barbara This deep, dark Santa Barbara “Super Tuscan,” loaded with black fruit, tobacco, and vanilla, earned a slam-dunk 95-point score from Wine Enthusiast. Little wonder, considering Waverly is led by owner and rancher Roger Bower and winemaker Adam Henkel, an eight-year veteran of Harlan Estate. Together they are…
2012 William Knuttel Rafanelli Vineyard “Mary’s Block” Cabernet Sauvignon Not often does a Dry Creek Cabernet Sauvignon outpoint the best of Napa Valley. Then again, rarely is that Cabernet Sauvignon grown by the Rafanellis in a vintage like 2012. Alberto Rafanelli emigrated from Italy to California in the early 1900s. He settled with his family…
“Once Pinot Noir Gets its Hooks in You, It Doesn’t Let Go” After almost a decade at Saintsbury, where he fashioned some of the richest, most elegant Pinot Noirs on the coast, Bill Knuttel finally moved north to Dry Creek, where he focused his winemaking talents on warmer-climate varieties. But, as any passionate winemaker will…
The Heralded Fruit of Gap’s Crown We’ve long sung the praises of the cool and windy Petaluma Wind Gap. The daily dance of wind and fog allows sugars to develop more slowly than further inland, allowing growers to pick late without worrying about overripeness, high alcohols, or acidity. In the foothills of Sonoma Mountain, the…
Torch-Bearer of a Monumental Vintage Amidst the greatness of the 2012 vintage in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Xavier Vignon’s “Anonyme” shines, earning 95 points from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, which raved about its “thrilling purity and focus.” Quality like this in an under-$50 package simply doesn’t come around very often. Compared to the other leaders of the vintage…
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