Conterno Fantino Langhe Chardonnay Bastia 2023 750ml

Wow, compliments to Conterno Fantino. The newest release of their organic Chardonnay—from a terribly challenging vintage nonetheless—hits it out of the ballpark. The 2023 Langhe Chardonnay Bastía is so exciting to drink thanks to that deftly balanced hint of reduction that adds so much energy and vitality to the wine. This Chardonnay is nervous and raring to go, like a racehorse at the starting line. I love the tension and the medium-plus mouthfeel that adds substance and staying power. Flint, struck match and smoke cede to preserved lemon and spicy saffron. I’m seeing more Italian Chardonnays made in this reductive manner, and I’m falling in love with the grape all over again.

• Country: Italy
• Region: Piedmont
• Appellation: Langhe
• Size: 750ml
• Color: White

Varietal

Chardonnay

Of all the white wine grape varietals, surely the one that has spread the furthest and is most widely appreciated is Chardonnay. This green-skinned grape is now grown all over the Old and New Worlds, from New Zealand to the Americas, from England to Chile, and is one of the first varietals people think of when considering white wine grapes. Perhaps this is because of its huge popularity, which reached a peak in the 1990s, thanks to new technologies combining with traditional methods to bring the very best features out of the Chardonnay grape and allow its unique qualities to shine through. Most fine Chardonnay wines use a process known as malolactic fermentation, wherein the malic acids in the grape juice are converted to lactic acids, allowing a creamier, buttery nature to come forward in the wine. No grape varietal is better suited to this process than Chardonnay, which manages to balance these silky, creamy notes with fresh white fruit flavors beautifully.