Clos de la Vierge 2022

Nestled between the Pyrenees mountains and the Atlantic Ocean in southern France, Jurançon has been renowned since the Middle Ages for its sweet wines. Nowadays, the region produces a tiny amount of exquisite dry whites that have garnered a cult following. Clos de la Vierge is the Barrère family’s vibrant flagship release, made with Gros Manseng from their prized “clos” (walled vineyard).

Domaine Barrère is led by 70-plus-year-old Anne-Marie Barrère. She tends to the 3.5-hectare (a little over 8 and a half acres) of vineyards and makes the wine—as she has done brilliantly for over 50 years. Her sister, Christiane, also helps out in the vineyard and winery, while their 90-plus-year-old mother, Madame Barrère, tends the kitchen garden and makes the afternoon tea.

Their vines are planted on a series of steep, sunny hills in curving rows. Anne-Marie’s father planted them in this traditional way back in the 1950s. Besides making for a stunning sight, the unique rows allow for the most sun exposure, which ripens grapes perfectly while the ocean influence locks in a vibrant freshness.

The best comparison? It’s like Burgundy meets Sancerre. (Similar to top Burgundy, the Barrères’ top wine comes from a “clos,” which features their best Gros Menseng.) In the glass, the wine is vibrant gold in color with a mouthfilling richness…peach, apricot and ripe apple, plus subtle wildflower and almond notes. It’s all carried by a zippy current of fresh citrus and minerality.

Delicious on its own and equally good with food. Try it with rich shellfish, roasted chicken or dishes with cream-based sauces.

Whatever you do, don’t delay. Very limited cases produced.