2015 Cune Monopole Blanco Rioja

Asimov’s Big Surprise

The New York Times’ Eric Asimov once wrote, “One of the wonderful things about wine is its seemingly infinite capacity to surprise. Consider, for example, white Riojas.” The article that unfolded detailed a tasting in which Asimov, along with the wine panel from The Times’Dining section, were thoroughly shocked by one of Spain’s best kept secrets.

“It’s rare that the panel is startled at a tasting, but we all ended up doing collective double-and triple takes. Were these really white Riojas we had just tasted? … They were superb!”

When we first poured today’s 2015 Cune Monopole Blanco Rioja, our reaction was much the same. Then, when we heard the price… well, forget about it.

The oldest white wine in Spain, Monopole has been produced by CVNE (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) since 1915. The winery itself dates to 1879 and includes a cellar built in 1909 by Alexandre Gustave Eiffel — yes, that Eiffel. Located in the town of Haro, CVNE’s holdings cover 1,350 acres in Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa. The winery, rebuilt in 1980, was the first in Spain use gravity in its vinification process.

In 2013, CVNE’s 2004 Rioja Imperial Gran Reserva landed the #1 spot on Wine Spectator’s coveted “Top 100” list. In 2014, it was the lesser-known 2013 Monopole that climbed its way into Spectator’s ranks, clocking in at #64.

Like its predecessors, today’s 2015 is no stranger to critical acclaim. Wine Spectator called the 2015 “fresh and bright, but also dense, with a firm backbone of crisp acidity,” noting that “the juicy, floral finish brings you back for another sip.” James Suckling complemented the wine’s balance and depth, calling it a “well-composed white Rioja with poignant acidity that’s nevertheless in harmony with the texture and volume of fruit.” Both critics added 90-point scores to their adulation, making the 2015 one of the highest rated under-$15 wines of the year.

Glistening yellow/green to the rim, made from 100% Viura, the 2015 Monopole Blanco Rioja shows a seductive nose reminiscent of spring — white flowers, green apples, dried pineapple, with mineral undertones. Fresh and long on the palate, laden with pear and verbena, braced by a lively acid backbone. Juicy and floral on the finish, perfect next to a dozen oysters on the half shell.

At $12.99, this is the most interesting under-$15 wine you’ll drink this year. It doesn’t matter who you take it from — us or Asimov — as long as a case ends up in your cellar. Just 600 bottles up for grabs, and they won’t last long.

• ABV 13.00%
• Enjoy right away
• % Other White Varietal