2014 Zorzal Eggo Tinto de Tiza Tupungato Mendoza

Leggo My Eggo

Has the Argentinian economy finally turned the corner? Forgive us if we’re somewhat wary of reports originating with national statistics we’ve watched getting massaged again and again. But still, enough U.S. analysts seem to agree that Argentina’s getting some color in the cheeks again, staggering out of recession in the third quarter and showing GDP growth in the fourth.

While an end to the vicious cycle of rampant inflation and currency devaluation should stabilize the export market, it may not be great news for bargain-hunters. Luckily for us, enough of Argentina’s savvy wineries watched how WineAccess helped sustain their peers during the worst of Argentina’s economic turbulence, and they want in.

We made our first trip way up the Mendoza foothills of the snow-covered Andes to Gualtallary in 2013. We wanted to see for ourselves what we’d begun hearing so much about: What the Michelini brothers have been up to at Zorzal.

What first caught our eye wasn’t the breathtaking, high-altitude vista of sugar-coated mountains, but the odd-looking, egg-shaped pods on the property. These concrete “egg” fermentation vats, first engineered by acclaimed Rhône winemaker Michel Chapoutier, are representative of the Michelini brothers’ effort to press every possible advantage in winemaking.

“Without any corners, egg vats create smoother flow and better uniformity,” Juan Pablo Michelini told us. “That circulation creates richer mouthfeel. The eggs regulate temperature better. The surface of concrete means you get millions of microscopic pockets of oxygen, which improves tannins. Also,” the winemaking director said, grinning, “they look cool!”

It’s just one reason why this bottle upends every notion you might have of what a typical Argentinian red tastes like. Whereas mediocre Mendoza wines can be over-extracted, overblown, and oaky, Zorzal’s Eggo “Tinto de Tiza” is precise, elegant, and as light on its feet as a prima ballerina. In fact, in our Zalto glass, it displayed a fine minerality straight out of a Northern Rhône Syrah, and an earthy concentration that was a dead ringer for Cahors. How?

The answer lies in the terroir — tinto de tiza means “chalk red.” Zorzal’s 173 acres of vineyards in Gualtallary rest on 100% calcareous soil, a rarity for the area. Combine that with the perch 4,264 feet above sea level — the highest in Mendoza — in addition to a brisk Andean breeze, and you’ve got the ingredients for a critical bonfire.

Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate has come out as one of the boldest cheerleaders of the Michelini brothers’ efforts.

“The Michelini brothers keep producing fresh, elegant and terroir-driven wines from their base in Gualtallary,” the publication announced in a recent Argentinian vintage report. “The range seems to be growing almost infinitely, as their creativity also seem to have no limits.”

But The Wine Advocate reserved its warmest accolades for this 2014 release, declaring: “At this price I’d buy it by the case. Super!”

Decanterwent even higher with a scorching 96-point review, including the 2014 Eggo “Tinto de Tiza” in an article entitled “Favorite wines of 2016: Decanter’s top 10 exciting buys.” “Texture is amazing,” raved Decanter’s critics, calling this wine “the treasure of Argentina.” We couldn’t agree more.

The 2014 Zorzal Eggo Tinto de Tiza is 92% Malbec, 5% Cabernet Franc and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon. Dark, brooding purple, infused with unusually high-toned aromas of crushed black and blue fruit, lilac, and wet stone. Rich, chiseled, profoundly concentrated, this wine soars with powerful lift and a decisive mineral cut that you’d expect from the Northern Rhône. Polished, sturdy finish, with lingering, silky tannins. Tremendous.

94 points from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate. 96 points from Decanter. $30 on release. ONLY $24.99 from WineAccess for this beautifully delineated red from the rising star of Mendoza. Shipping included on 6. If you can’t see why this is the Argentinian case-buy of the year, you need to recheck your math.

• ABV 14.50%
• Enjoy right away
• % Malbec