2014 Solena Estate Pinot Gris Willamette Valley

“Close Your Eyes … Just Smell”

The first time was in Alsace. We were walking the vines above the Hansel and Gretel hamlet of Wettolsheim with our friend, winemaker François Barmès. It was October 2008 and after a dry growing season, the small-berry clusters of Pinot Gris were golden. The sun was shining, the leaves a brilliant green against a turquoise sky. François stopped, his blue eyes beaming: “Close your eyes … and just smell.”

And then we understood all we needed to know about one of the spiciest, raciest, and most temperamental white varieties on the planet.

There’s nothing quite like Pinot Gris when it’s just right. Weighty and dense like Chardonnay, filled with sweet Anjou pear and spice, braced with electrifying acidity. But as François was so quick to point out on that sunny autumn day, Pinot Gris is rarely “comme il faut.” Too much heat and Pinot Gris is heavy and ponderous, lacking tension. Too little and the variety is angular and never shows off its mouthwatering spiciness and ripe-fruit intensity.

On April 2nd, we attended “Willamette,” Oregon’s first wine auction, held at the Allison Hotel and Spa in Newberg. While the subject of the auction was the phenomenal 2014 Pinot Noirs, we had lunch with the Willamette Valley’s most brilliant white wine craftsman, Laurent Montalieu, and shared a bottle of his 2011 Soléna Estate Pinot Gris. Much as François Barmès had explained nine years ago while walking the rows of his famed “Rosenberg” cru, Montalieu described the makings of a perfect Pinot Gris vintage in Oregon. “We need three growing season elements if we’re to challenge the greats of Alsace. First, we must have heat, but not too much heat. Second, a very dry growing season. Last, we need to pay close attention to yields, green harvesting aggressively to draw out the richness and the spice.” Then, one of the most brilliant and understated winemakers in the coast smiled and concluded, “In 2014, we were three for three!”

While the Willamette Valley summer of 2014 featured an unprecedented 25 days where high temperatures topped 90 degrees, not a single day hit 100. Drought conditions prevailed. The Pinot Gris vines took full advantage, feasting on brilliant sunshine. Potential yields were copious — nearly 4 tons per acre — until Montalieu’s crew gave the vines “a haircut.” At harvest, the berries were loaded with sugar even as Brix readings were fairly modest. Acids were firm — a Pinot Gris vintage for the ages in the Willamette Valley.

Brilliant light-golden to the edge, infused with luscious spicy-pear aromatics, tinged with ginger and sweet spice. Rich, juicy, and weighty on the attack, crisp and vibrant but also sneaky in its underlying complexity. Don’t be fooled by the modest price tag. This is one of those rare American white wine bargains that can be served as a summertime quaffer by the pool, or far better, stands up beautifully to seared salmon and roasted duck or farm chicken.

$25 on release. Just $18.99 today … and yes — EMPHATICALLY — this is a summer CASE-buy.

• ABV 13.10%
• Enjoy right away
• % Pinot Grigio