2012 Knez Winery Pinot Noir Demuth Vineyard Anderson Valley

White Quail and 93-point Pinot Noir…at 6640 Washington Street in Yountville

When a boutique California Pinot Noir producer, even one with as many 93-95 point scores in its resume as Knez Vineyards, lands an appointment at 6640 Washington Street in Yountville, spirits run high. When that upcoming appointment coincides with an opening for a Pinot Noir feature placement on Thomas Keller’s wine list, the mood turns buoyant — at least until the winery comes to understand the nature of the competition.

Chef Keller’s French Laundry is America’s most cogent retort to Paris’s Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée, Le Pré Catelan, and Arpège — all wrapped into one neat Napa Valley package. Even at more than $500/head on average, if you’re looking to book a table for two this summer, don’t waste your time: You’re a couple months late!

Still, despite its uber-rich clientele and a wine list spattered with vintages of First Growth Bordeaux, Grand Cru Burgundy, Harlan Estate, Screaming Eagle, and Colgin, Keller’s sommeliers have long been mindful of the chef’s humble beginnings, providing plenty of bargains for diners who don’t reside in Atherton, Palo Alto, or Los Gatos.

Each of those under-$100 selections is made based on the current menu, and how each wine enhances, without competing with, the exquisite purity and subtle nuances of Keller’s cuisine. As a result, in late spring, when The French Laundry lets it be known that the restaurant is evaluating new releases, every superstar Pinot Noir winery from Sta. Rita Hills to Sonoma Coast comes running.

Such was the case, apparently, over the last two weeks, after Knez presented its wonderfully juicy and richly high-toned 2012 Demuth Vineyard Pinot Noir to the powers-that-be on Washington Street.  Finally, in early June, the winery received the call it was waiting for. The competition had reportedly been fierce. Dozens of top-rated sample bottles flooded in. We’re told the entire conversation lasted just 7 minutes, but it seemed like hours before the caller shared the news: A pairing with Keller’s Wolfe Ranch White Quail with apricots, sweet carrot puree, wild sorrel, and pistachio jus, had allowed winemaker Anthony Filiberti’s 2012 to distance itself from the field.

The 7 acres of Pinot Noir at Peter Knez’s Demuth Vineyard, situated on steep slopes at 1,400-1,800 feet in elevation, were treated to a 2012 vintage that has proven to be one for the record books. Steady winter rain made for a high water table, allowing these sturdy, 30-year-old, dry-farmed vines to flourish during the spring and summer months when barely a drop of rain fell. Yields were tiny, just 1.5 tons per acre, magnifying concentration and fruit purity. The call to hand-harvest was delayed until the first of October, and due to the near-perfect conditions, took place over three days, with the last rows picked on October 4th.

50% whole-cluster pressed, native yeast fermentation was conducted in 1-ton fermenters over a three-week period before being gravity-siphoned into French oak barrels, 33% of which were new. The 2012 Demuth Pinot Noir was bottled unfined and unfiltered.  Vivid ruby-red. Gorgeous high-toned aromas of black cherry, raspberry, rose oil, and sweet spice, a hint of new-wood cedar. Rich, juicy, refined, and Vosne-like in complexity, filled with a mouthwatering mix of black cherry, violets, and sweet cranberry. Youthful and primary in makeup currently, like all of the high-scoring Knez Pinot Noirs that have come off the winery’s Demuth and Cerise vineyards, finishing with great vibrancy, tension, and persistence. Drink now-2024.

93 points.  Compared to $95/bottle at French Laundry.  Just $33 this morning EXCLUSIVELY on WineAccess.   Shipping included on 4.

• ABV 13.40%
• Enjoy right away
• % Pinot Noir