2012 Antucura La Folie Vista Flores Mendoza

2012 Antucura “La Folie”… and a Mercedes S550 in Buenos Aires

The black Mercedes S550 that crawled behind us as we walked the streets of Buenos Aires had our hearts racing, making us wonder why we ever boarded that red-eye out of JFK. Lawlessness abounds in Argentina, as the country’s government continues to bury its head in the sand, publicly quoting inflation rates of 10-12%, as international economists — and Mendoza’s winegrowers — suggest rates 2-3 times that high.

But once the S550 with the tinted windows slithered off into the Buenos Aires night and our pulse rates returned to the low 60s, we reconsidered our decision to spend two weeks in Argentine wine country. Among a number of unforgettable visits was our late-afternoon tasting with Anne-Caroline Biancheri and her ingenious young winemaker, Hervé Chagneau — a tasting that led to a three-hour starlit asado at Antucura and a magnum of Chagneau’s stunning 2012 “La Folie.”

For the economists who contend that Argentina’s fiscal woes will soon bring the country’s top estates to their knees — think twice before counting out Antucura. On the heels of Chagneau’s 95-point 2012 Malbec comes this extravagant Bordeaux blend that ranks among the more luscious Cabernets of Chagneau’s career.

A carefully constructed blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc, the 2012 Antucura “La Folie” straddles the line between New World black-fruit polish and Right Bank cut. Blackish-ruby to the rim with a beautifully delineated nose of black raspberry, violets, white pepper, and sweet spice. Ultra-rich on the attack, though still perfectly poised and light on its feet, broad-shouldered and finely muscled, packed with crushed-red- and black-fruit preserves, drizzled with crème de cassis. Though 15% in alcohol, there is no sense of heat or overbearing weight, as the wine’s unusually firm backbone keeps all the vintage opulence in perfect check.

91 points from Stephen Tanzer, one of the toughest critics on the planet. Just 300 cases made it stateside, 75 of which are earmarked for WineAccess. $25 on release. About as good as New World Cabernet ever gets at just $15 today. Shipping included on 6.

• ABV 14.80%
• Enjoy right away
• % Red Blend