2011 Robert Keenan Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Spring Mountain District

2011 Keenan Cabernet Sauvignon “Reserve”:
A 94pt Miracle on Spring Mountain

As we learned in the high ground of Spring and Howell mountains two weeks ago, those who were quick to universally decry Napa Valley’s 2011 vintage completely missed the boat. For reasons we will explain in some detail, estates perched well above the fog line have turned out spectacular Cabernet Sauvignons, few more extraordinary than Michael Keenan’s 2011 “Reserve.”

A wet winter was followed by an equally damp spring. By late June 2011, growers were beginning to wonder if the Napa Valley sun would ever shine. On July 1st, the underground water table was high. Nearly 40% more rain had fallen than the norm.

At nearly 1,800 feet in elevation, the maturation process was already 2-3 weeks behind. Keenan’s crew took to the vines early and often, opening up leaf canopies, exposing bunches to the mountain sun. On the “Reserve” blocks, some of the oldest parcels on the property, plants were shaped by hand, shoot by shoot, to ensure that the Cabernet Sauvignon would take full advantage of sunlight and the warmer Spring Mountain nights and mornings on the hillsides.

In August, Michael told us, he had a dilemma on his hands. Flowering had come so late on Spring Mountain that the Keenan “Reserve” Cabernet Sauvignon had missed the bad weather during flowering and had none of the fruit-set problems common to the valley floor. Yields were actually somewhat above normal, even if ripening was well behind. Keenan considered conducting a rigorous green harvest, dropping crop to spike maturity. In the end, however, he elected to roll the dice, a decision that would pay monster dividends two months later.

As it turned out, the delayed ripening proved to be a godsend. Early October rains, while damaging down below, were inconsequential at the top of Spring Mountain, as the call to pick wouldn’t come until the very last week of the month — making this the latest harvest on record, breaking the record of 2010. The extra hangtime allowed the Cabernet Sauvignon to reach optimal maturity while retaining superb acidity. Most importantly, seeds browned beautifully. Tannins were perfectly ripe. 2011 would prove to be one of the more miraculous vintages at Keenan in 30 years.

The 2011 Keenan Cabernet Sauvignon “Reserve” is opaque purple in hue. Beautifully chiseled aromas of blackberry, black cherry, sweet spice, and tobacco, touched with licorice and decidedly Left Bank graphite. Rich, dense, and finely layered, packed with black- and red-fruit preserves, this is that rare Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon that’s half Spring Mountain, half Pauillac. Antonio Galloni said it best when he wrote: “The 2011 should drink well relatively early, but there is also enough depth to support another 10-15 years beyond that, perhaps longer. The 2011 Reserve isn’t an obvious wine, but it sure is beautiful.” Amen.

94 points from Galloni. $104 on release. $78/bottle this morning on WineAccess — the best price anywhere. You make the call. Shipping included on 3.

• ABV 14.80%
• Enjoy right away
• % Cabernet Sauvignon