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King Louis XV of France while entertaining Madame de Pompadour at Versailles, created history when he served her, “The wine of kings, the king of wines.” Today, Tokaji is firmly back on its throne, seriously challenging First Growth Sauternes for the mantle of greatest sweet wine on earth. There are few better examples that demonstrate…
Domaine Étienne Daulny Le Clos de Chaudenay: 65-Year-Old-Vine Sancerre We visited the Loire Valley in July, as we have every summer since 1992. Rather than making a half-dozen visits per day as we once did, we’ve learned that “less is more” when trying to come to grips with the vagaries of a single growing season….
Taillevent’s Château Turcaud Entre-Deux-Mers — 252 Perfect 5-Star Ratings In four consecutive vintages, it’s been the top-rated white wine bargain on WineAccess. But for climatic reasons that would be explained to us in detail by the venerable Maurice Robert, the 2014 vintage may well be the finest in the history of Château Turcaud. Spring was…
2014 Etienne et Bertrand Daulny Sancerre: #1 Under-$20 Mineral White of the Year? Four years ago, Etienne Daulnyand his enologist brother Bertrand turned out Stephen Tanzer’s highest-rated Sancerre in four years, earning a glowing review and a rare 92-point score in the International Wine Cellar. In the first week of June, we returned to the minuscule hamlet of…
“Enough is Enough” Last summer, as you may recall, WineAccess made a decision to move all of our logistics operations from Oregon to Napa. We chose a partner company that, on paper, seemed perfectly suited for the task. No longer would there be lengthy delays between orders and shipments, we were assured. A second warehouse…
Sauvignon Madness in Thésée-La-Romaine The story of winemaker Vincent Ricard’s rise from utter anonymity to the Michelin-starred wine lists of Paris’s 6th, 7th, and 8th arrondissements is well worth repeating. In the late 90’s, the young winemaker many consider to be the most talented in the Loire Valley came home. Life in Thésée-La-Romaine would never…
Tanzer’s Highest Rated Under-$12 “long-time Sauvignon Blanc superstar” There are critics you can count on to be effusive with their praise and generous with their scores, even for marginal wines. Stephen Tanzer is not one of them. The founder of International Wine Cellar has always been a straight shooter, and his stingy scores are legendary. So…
Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc As It SHOULD Be … But So Rarely Is! It was John R. from Rosemont, PA, who put it best when he posted his 5-star review of Steve Gill’s ultra-mineral Te Mania Sauvignon Blanc. “Who needs Cloudy Bay?” John wrote. Who indeed? The vast majority of the New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc found…
Kiwi Sauv Blanc with a “Gin and Tonic” Freshness There are critics you can count on to be effusive with their praise and generous with their scores, even for marginal wines. Stephen Tanzer is not one of them. The founder of the International Wine Cellar has always been a straight shooter, and his stingy scores…
2015 Château Turcaud Entre-Deux-Mers: “More Graves than Entre-Deux-Mers” In five consecutive vintages, it’s been the top-rated white wine bargain on WineAccess. But for climatic reasons explained to us in detail last month in Bordeaux, the 2015 vintage is one of the two or three richest Entre-Deux-Mers in the history of Château Turcaud. Even before the…
Les Monts Damnés: Greatest Vineyard in Sancerre Napa Valley has To Kalon. Champagne has Clos de Mesnil. Burgundy has Montrachet. And Sancerre has Les Monts Damnés. The steep, vertigo-inducing hillside, Les Montes Damnés literally translates to “the cursed mountains.” Legend is that the grape harvesters named the site as such as it was always the…
The Daulny Brothers Do It Again! Four years ago, Etienne Daulny and his enologist brother Bertrand turned out Stephen Tanzer’s highest-rated Sancerre in four years, earning a glowing review and a rare 92-point score in the International Wine Cellar. Last June, we returned to the minuscule hamlet of Chaudoux and once again knocked on the…
A Winemaker is born in Bué-en-Sancerre In the spring of 2010, winemaker Dominique Roger introduced us to his neighbor, Janine Crochet. As Dominique had explained before leading us up the road in Bué-en-Sancerre, Janine’s husband, also named Dominique, had passed away suddenly. The Crochets needed help. Dominique Roger asked WineAccess to lend a hand. We…
The word from Bué-en-Sancerre: Dany won’t budge It was the Viking on the Harley who first directed us to Dominique Roger. We spent many summer evenings in the late 1980s in Didier Dagueneau’s backyard, tasting bottles from the Loire Valley’s best. Dagueneau was always a stickler, mincing no words as he ripped apart bottles that…
Time Travel and “Terres Blanches” A canopied, tree-lined road connects Domaine du Nozay to the small village of Sainte Gemme-en-Sancerrois (population 400). Emerging from the leafy tunnel, we felt time move backwards. The original 17th century château still stands in pristine condition, ringed by sloping vineyards and quaint storehouses. The estate has belonged to the…
Fifth Generation Vignerons Taking Sancerre to Another Level In a superb growing season like the one Loire Valley experienced in 2015, offering a “mix of perfect ripeness and well-structured, concentrated juiciness” according to Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, the results can be extraordinary. Releases from the likes of Alphonse Mellot and Domaine Vacheron can fetch upwards…
The Secret is in the Final Blend When notoriously hard to impress critic Stephen Tanzer is impressed, we pay attention. But when Tanzer awards 93 points to an under-$20 Sauvignon Blanc from the New World? We back up the truck. Writing for Vinous, he called the mouth-watering 2015 Mulderbosch “rich, smooth and substantial” before adding…
Steve Gill’s tiny production, ultra-concentrated 2015 Sauvignon Blancs are among the finest of the last 20 years. The 2015 Richmond Plains Sauvignon Blanc is an absolute knockout. Brilliant green-straw to the rim, with mouthwatering aromas of pink grapefruit, gooseberry, Anjou pear, and passion fruit. Rich, plump, and weighty—infused with a slight hint of sweetness, the…
2015 Seifried “Old Coach Road”: Stunning Judges at a Stunning Price Most who travel to the South Island of New Zealand do so for the swimming, windsurfing, and kayaking. Summer days in the seaside paradise of Nelson feature bright sunshine and turquoise skies, even as the mercury barely touches 80 degrees. At night, we pull…
2015 Te Mania Sauvignon Blanc … “So Much for Cloudy Bay!!” Thousands visit Nelson each year. Situated at the top northwest corner of the South Island, it’s the sunniest spot in New Zealand. Some come for the five-day trek through Abel Tasman National Park, some for Nelson’s clear blue coastline — the kayaking and snorkeling….
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