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It’s hard to think of a wine that benefits more from time in the cellar than great Barolo. Often stern and structured in its youth, time reveals detail, nuance, and complexity that were unforeseen when the wine was young—but it’s exceptionally rare to find bottles with any sort of age on them in the market,…
A 15-year-old Nebbiolo like no other: Barolo meets Vosne-Romanée We were in the middle of tasting 50 bottles of 2016 rosé when the Google Alert popped up on our phones: “Eleven Madison Park is the Greatest Restaurant in the World.” The NYC hotspot had been named the Best Restaurant in the World by World’s 50…
That Cellar Release They Were Saving for a Rainy Day There are a million interesting restaurants always tempting us in NYC, but again we made a beeline for the 4th floor of the Time Warner Center, and Chef Thomas Keller’s Per Se. With our favorite front-row view of Central Park — lovers strolling on a…
Ar.Pe.Pe: Tre Bicchieri and #1 Red in Italy The 2007 Ar.Pe.Pe Sassella Riserva is a knockout red: “Intoxicating scents of smoke, flint, dried mountain herb and woodland berry are just some of the multifaceted aromas you’ll find on this dazzling Nebbiolo,” raved Wine Enthusiast with a near-perfect 98-point score. “Some may find this almost too…
The 2007 Vigna Rionda is an occasion unto itself: a perfectly cellared, mouthwatering Barolo from a revered producer, and a vintage that yielded “viscerally thrilling wines,” according to Antonio Galloni. Collectors tend to pounce on the classics like this before their already limited productions find their way stateside, but we nabbed an allocation from Oddero—one…
2007 Barolo: Black Magic in La Morra The 2007 vintage all around the hillside bowl of Barolo was unique. The hot summer helped nurse Nebbiolo to extreme ripeness, accounting for a bevy of big, rich, Burgundian-styled wines that almost belied their Piemontese origin. In this one-of-a-kind growing season, on the steep hillsides of La Morra,…
Rodolfo’s Outstanding Cru Barolo — The “Suave, Seductive, and Totally Impeccable” 2008 Thirty years ago, a group of renegade Piedmontese winegrowers began experimenting with a different approach to the farming and making of Barolo. The “Modernists” were led by the likes of Elio Altare, Valentino Migliorini, Paolo Scavino, Angelo Gaja, and Roberto Voerzio. In the…
Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, James Suckling, and Wine Spectator all agree that the 2009 Bruno Giacosa Le Rocche del Falletto is a marvelous 95-point Barolo. The Wine Advocate called it “deliciously silky and extra fine with microscopic precision,” while Suckling hailed its “super-elegant” and “truly outstanding” fruit purity, and Spectator honored it as “harmonious in…
2009 Giovanni Manzone Barolo “Gramolere” … and an Importer’s Year-End Review As importers prepare for end-of-year meetings with accountants and bankers, they scour warehouses looking for ways to “lighten up.” Every so often they choose to sell off a couple dozen cases of something exceptional — but almost never something like 25 cases of a…
2009 Single-Vineyard Barolo and World-Class Pinot Noir … Cut from the Same Cloth In the last week of December, we sat down in the Great Room with two data analysts and ran detailed queries against the order database. 2015 marked a huge upswing in Barolo price AND sales — nearly double the total number of…
We were prepared to spend the big bucks at Terroni DTLA for a Barolo that would match the red-sauce meal of our dreams. But thanks to a last-minute intercession from sommelier Kayla Goldberg, who thrust this exquisitely precise 92-point Nebbiolo into our hands, we were swooning over forest floor aromas and silky tannins for a…
Cellar-Release From Iconic Barolo Producer I never thought I would have the opportunity to offer a wine from Borgogno — a benchmark producer whose iconic and legendary estate is smack in the village of Barolo. But thanks to a personal visit a few years back, today, I am able to present this 2010 Giacomo Borgogno…
A Historic Barolo from a Vineyard “Kissed by God” The 2010 vintage in Barolo will go down as the most extraordinary in decades. Parker rated the vintage 98 points; Wine Spectator countered with 96-99. Antonio Galloni called it “the greatest young Barolo vintage I have tasted in 18 years of visiting the region and a…
2010 Giovanni Manzone Barolo “Gramolere” The 2010 vintage ranks among the greatest ever in Northern Europe. Bordeaux, Burgundy, and the Rhône Valley shined like rarely before. But if we were to pick one wine route where that fabulously drawn-out growing season most excelled, it would have to be Piedmont. Particularly on the limestone-strewn hillsides of…
As wine retailers, we tend to hone in on those moments when a bottle grabs you on a visceral, gut level, and this gorgeously perfumed, seductive Italian red did just that. With a bowl of truffle-flecked risotto and a carafe of this 2011 Anzivino Riserva in front of us, it only took one sip to…
2011 Seghesio Barolo … When Piedmont Leans Towards Gevrey-Chambertin When it comes to floral intensity and aromatic fireworks, Barolo is Italy’s only answer to France’s red Burgundy. Wildly aromatic, mineral, terrifically complex — the best examples age gracefully for decades. Still, despite all the comparisons to Burgundy, rarely do the Piedmontese craft Barolos that are…
Serralunga Limestone: Wine Spectator’s #1 Barolo of the Year At least for the time being, Piedmont’s 2011 vintage has been overshadowed by the extraordinary 2010 harvest. But, as The Wine Advocate, Wine Spectator, and Barolo specialist Antonio Galloni have noted in recent months, certain 2011s eclipse the 2010s when it comes to dark-fruit concentration, raciness,…
A Barolo Coup In 2012, the cream of Monforte d’Alba — Grasso, Conterno, and Elio Altare — came through with masterful, wildly complex, Burgundian-styled Nebbiolos of extraordinary charm and finesse. The 2012 Attilio Ghisolfi Barolo drawn from the Bussia vineyard, one of the most prized sites in Piedmont, belongs in that company, and in your…
Tiny-Production Cru Barolo The brilliant 2012 Ciabot Berton Barolo Roggeri won gold at the 2017 Decanter World Wine Awards, where it garnered 95 points from the judges, who hailed its “aromatic herbs, leather and spice,” and “great tannic structure and fresh acidity.” Coming off a performance like that—and coming from a producer like Ciabot Benton’s Oberto family—we…
Ask Barolo winemakers to list their Top Five vineyards. We’d bet a bottle of Monfortino that Vigna Rionda would be on every list. The site is the Barolo equivalent of Le Musigny or Chambertin—the very best of the best of the area’s Grand Crus. It’s one of just ten sites that Vinous rates as Exceptional…
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