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Burgundy’s Seventeen Dollar “Great White” We first tasted Paul Talmard’s Mâcon-Uchizy in the early 1980s. About once every three years, we returned to Uchizy to taste with Talmard. Paul was always perfectly charming, but you could tell he far preferred life in the vines to the cellar. The Talmard Mâcons were painstakingly chiseled, seemingly kissed…
A Long Awaited Sonoma Coast Chardonnay A few years ago, we walked into a tasting at San Francisco’s Nob Hill mainstay Farallon, and walked out with a verbal agreement to offer one of Todd Gottula and Erin Brooks wines to Wine Access clients. It’s taken nearly three years, but we’ve finally secured an allocation of…
Off the Deep End in Anderson Valley Milla Handley came to the Anderson Valley in 1978, well before Copain, Radio-Coteau, Dutton-Goldfield, and Morlet had an inkling of the region’s potential. She eventually settled on 59 acres in the “deep end” of the valley, captivated by the possibilities of uncharted winemaking territory. Here, just 10 miles…
Hidden Ridge’s Other California Classic If you’re a fan of classic, opulent California Estate Chardonnay, don’t count on seeing a better deal than this Wine Access exclusive: the 2014 Hidden Ridge Chardonnay Sonoma County. Why is this price possible? Quite simply, because Hidden Ridge’s Cabernets, produced by 100-point winemaker Tim Milos (of Opus One, Cliff…
There is so much history and pedigree packed into this Krutz Family Martinelli Road Vineyard Chardonnay, it’s hard to know where to begin. The story of its making is essential to understanding why it is a true California Grand Cru, and why Jeb Dunnuck called it a “compelling, undeniably delicious Chardonnay.” While its notes of…
Winery of the Year’s Take on White Burgundy The Willamette Valley isn’t just Pinot Noir country anymore. Chardonnay from this slice of northern Oregon has become a hot commodity, and rightly so. The best Chardonnays we’ve tasted call to mind some of the qualities — richness coupled with juicy acid and precise minerality — you’d…
2014 Lioco Chardonnay “Estero”: When The French Laundry Comes Callin The 2014 Chardonnay vintage was spectacular in Russian River. The third consecutive drought year began with fine weather at flowering, leading to a healthy fruit set. While berry and cluster size was small, each of the Big Five reported that natural concentration far outpaced the…
Dollar for Dollar: The New York Times’ Top Chardonnay of 2015 Those of you living in Biloxi, Little Rock, or Twin Falls, where it’s more difficult to get one’s hands on the Thursday New York Times, may not know the work of wine columnist Eric Asimov. As most of America’s newspapers cut loose their highest-paid…
White Limestone Makes Ageworthy Chardonnay For White Burgundy, there are just eight vineyards bearing the Grand Cru designation, and there are about 50 Premier Cru parcels. Of those 50, just two merit consideration as Grand Crus:“La Romanée” and our favorite, “Cailleret.” The 2014 Louis Latour Chassagne-Montrachet is a classic White Burgundy vintage from the best…
Premier Cru Puligny-Montrachet’s Shining Hour Louis Latour is not only the most-recognized name in Burgundy history, but one whose reputation for quality is simply paramount. After all, 11 generations of Latours have cultivated vineyards in Burgundy, long before their portfolio included some of the most famous Grand Crus in Burgundy. In short: they know how…
Limestone Above Mâcon and the Monks of Cluny The Abbaye de Cluny was founded by William I, Duke of Aquitaine, in the year 910. While only about one-tenth of the former Benedictine monastery remains intact, thousands flock to Cluny each summer to begin the trek to Santiago de Compostela. But while the monks of Cluny…
MIND THE GAP In Antonio Galloni’s high-flying 2014 Chardonnay lineup, Mark Aubert’s “Lauren” ($170/bottle) came in at a best-of-vintage 97 points. Kistler’s “Hudson Vineyard” ($140) was just a tad behind, earning 94-97 points. But one point ahead of Rochioli ($96) and two points ahead of the most expensive Chardonnay in Sonoma, Peter Michael’s “Point Rouge”…
A Wagner Family Affair … and a 1967 Turquoise Chevy Pickup Truck Anyone who knows the slightest bit about the history of American winegrowing knows the Wagner family and their Rutherford estate, Caymus. But it seems very few outside of Napa know the story of Chuck Wagner, his humble beginnings, the tragedy that struck when…
Michelin-Starred Favorite Winemaker’s Bourgogne Blanc I convened our tasting panel after getting a call from a supplier, who told me that the rest of her 2014 Patrice Rion Bourgogne Blanc — a gorgeous white Burgundy from the vintage rated 97 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate — was up for grabs. We tasted the wine,…
A 94-point Knuckler in Montrachet After three consecutive short harvests (2011-2013), some ravaged by hail, one by frost, the greatest names of Chassagne- and Puligny-Montrachet grimaced as they took stock of the value of their assets and their revenues. Even as land and bottle prices skyrocket on the limestone hillsides of the Côte de Beaune,…
A 94-point Knuckleball in Chassagne-Montrachet After three consecutive short harvests (2011-2013), some ravaged by hail, one by frost, the greatest names of Chassagne- and Puligny-Montrachet grimaced as they took stock of the value of their assets and their revenues. Even as land and bottle prices skyrocket on the limestone hillsides of the Côte de Beaune,…
Over two decades, Red Car has gained a sterling reputation (not to mention a bit of a cult following) for delivering on the priceless terroir in their Sonoma County backyard. They’ve won fans nationwide—and been named a Wine & Spirits Top 100 winery—by crafting first-class gems from the most revered vineyards on the “True Sonoma…
Pedigree and Value Collide in Red Car’s Chardonnay For about 20 years, Red Car has quietly and consistently been producing sustainably-crafted, boutique gems like today’s Sonoma Coast Chardonnay, at prices that make marquee producers squirm—as Red Car’s production inches higher and the accolades keep piling on, the competition’s high-priced bottlings are gathering dust on the…
Breakfast of Champions It’s just a matter of taste. Some like their Chardonnay “buttery,” almost brioche-like, rich and soft. Some like more sinew and plenty of new-wood toast. But some of us long for the sturdy side of Chardonnay, the style found — almost uniquely — above the Napa Valley fog line where the days…
From his perch atop Spring Mountain, Stony Hill winemaker Mike Chelini has spent an astonishing 40+ years turning out the most brilliant, chiseled mountain Chardonnays Napa Valley has ever seen. This 2014 Stony Hill Chardonnay is a sublime effort of bright, lemon-peel intensity, with a righteous mineral-driven and juicy acid backbone. Culled from a perfect…
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