Jean Paul et Benoit Droin Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos Hommage A Louis 2009 750ml

The 2009 Chablis Les Clos is striking in the way it saturates the palate in all dimensions with gorgeous inner perfume and layers of textured, brilliant fruit. Saline notes appear on the mid-palate and finish, giving the wine further intensity, focus and harmony. Hints of smokiness and crushed rocks wrap around the close. Here, too, the 50% oak is very nicely integrated. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. This is an exciting set of wines from Benoit Droin, one of the generation of rising stars in Chablis. The estate farms nine hectares of vineyards. Benoit Droin told me his choice of when to start picking in 2009 was deeply influenced by 2006, a year in which he felt he waited too long. The 2009s were brought in beginning in early September. The wines were fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged in steel and/or barrel, depending on the specific wine, as noted above. The 2010s, which I tasted from tank in their final blends, were among the highlights of my trip to Chablis. The 2010 harvest began on September 20th. Yields were down 30% on average. I also tasted a few older bottles, including the 2002 Valmur and 2004 Vaudesir, both of which were in great shape.

• Country: France
• Region: Burgundy
• Appellation: Chablis
• Size: 750ml
• Color: White

Varietal

Chardonnay

Of all the white wine grape varietals, surely the one that has spread the furthest and is most widely appreciated is Chardonnay. This green-skinned grape is now grown all over the Old and New Worlds, from New Zealand to the Americas, from England to Chile, and is one of the first varietals people think of when considering white wine grapes. Perhaps this is because of its huge popularity, which reached a peak in the 1990s, thanks to new technologies combining with traditional methods to bring the very best features out of the Chardonnay grape and allow its unique qualities to shine through. Most fine Chardonnay wines use a process known as malolactic fermentation, wherein the malic acids in the grape juice are converted to lactic acids, allowing a creamier, buttery nature to come forward in the wine. No grape varietal is better suited to this process than Chardonnay, which manages to balance these silky, creamy notes with fresh white fruit flavors beautifully.