2013 Dashe Cellars Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley

A Night to Remember: Zinfandel at French Laundry

It was one of the most original food and wine pairings of our 30 years on the wine trail. We’re not talking about George V sommelier Eric Beaumard and that striking match of a dry 1925 Bual Madeira with traditional beef consommé. Nor are we speaking of that flute of Roederer Cristal Rosé that accompanied the baked apple and blood sausage amuse-gueule in the parlor of La Côte D’or in Saulieu.

No, the pairing we will never forget was conjured up by cellarmaster Paul Roberts. The address was 6640 Washington Street in Yountville. The chef was Thomas Keller. The restaurant was, of course, The French Laundry.

Roberts, the 48th Master Sommelier in the world, who has now taken his high-flying act to Colgin Estate at the top of Pritchard Hill, still remembers that night in 2005 vividly. “French Laundry is one of the few restaurants in the United States where the clientele inherently trusts the sommelier. Thomas wants each meal to be memorable. My job, then, was to come up with food and wine marriages that were not simply harmonious, but surprising. The one you guys enjoyed back then was probably the most surprising of all.”

Our second course was one of Keller’s signature dishes. Beets and Leeks features buttered, poached Maine lobster tail coated with a toasted-beet purée. The obvious pairing seemed to be a Meursault from François Jobard or Chassagne-Montrachet from Niellon. Then, perhaps, a Grand Cru Riesling kissed with 5-8 grams of residual sugar from François Barmès, Weinbach, or Boxler. But when Roberts arrived at our table, he clearly had no interest in suggesting the obvious. The bottle he’d chosen was concealed in white linen. You could see the mischief in the cellarmaster’s eyes.

“If it’s OK with you, I’d like to pour the wine before revealing its identity.” As no one registered a complaint, Paul quickly and unceremoniously uncorked the bottle and poured three ounces of a deep ruby RED into crystal stems. “Most would suggest a white wine with Beets and Leeks. Me?” Roberts smiled. “I prefer this.”

The color was brilliant ruby. The aromas were pierced with a high-toned mix of black raspberry and cherry, yet the wine remained marvelously restrained, dancing light on its feet. Old World or New? A ripe vintage for sure, but not a hot one. The cooperage was clearly French, but not more than 25% of the oak could have been new. We sipped, aspirated, swirled, and swallowed. Then we spooned a bit of beet purée over a chunk of lobster and laid it on our tongues as we took a second sip. OMG!

We looked up. Roberts removed the linen, set the bottle on the table. We saw the label — the monkey riding the fish — and did a double-take. “Amazing, isn’t it?” Roberts laughed. “It works every time!” And off he went to sweet-talk the next table into the most improbable of 3-star Michelin pairings — Mike and Anne Dashe’s ethereal old-vine Zinfandel with The French Laundry’s Beets and Leeks!

The 2013 Dashe Dry Creek Zinfandel is a classic. Brilliant ruby-purple to the edge, infused with high-toned aromas of black raspberry, black currant, violets, and sweet spice. Rich, juicy, powerfully built yet perfectly light on its feet, filled with ripe black cherry, cassis, and black raspberry, sprinkled with the white pepper that so perfectly complements French Laundry’s poached lobster. Finishes with great purity and persistence. Drink now for its primary-fruit juiciness or lay down until 2022.

• ABV 14.10%
• Enjoy right away
• % Zinfandel