2006 Domaine Patrick Jasmin Cote-Rotie

The Sommelier and the ‘Soup Nazi’

We met Michael Madrigale for dinner not far from Bar Boulud, where he shot to fame as Wine Enthusiast’s #1 Sommelier in America. Michael poured a 2006 Patrick Jasmin Côte-Rôtie and proceeded to tell us about the last gift from the “Soup Nazi” of NYC importers.

“I was told to stay away from him,” Michael said, as he swirled an oversized Reidel stem. “He left a trail of broken sommeliers in his wake. Once, a colleague of mine ordered a case of Sancerre from him at $180, but he was sent the single-vineyard bottling instead at double the price. When the sommelier tried to return it, he was told he should keep it because deep down it was worth three times the price. NO REFUND.”

Madrigale’s subject was Robert Chadderdon, the legendary New York wine importer. At one time, he had THE wine book in NYC, importing Huet, Dujac, Boxler, Billecart-Salmon, JJ Prüm, Bartolo, Quintarelli, Gonon, and more, well before they were household names. He had a great palate and a Mako shark-like business sense, and he knew it. And every NYC sommelier knew it too.

“If Chadderdon didn’t like you, he wouldn’t do business with you, period,” Madrigale said. “He had no price list. You couldn’t taste the wines ahead of time. He didn’t even have email. But it didn’t matter because all of his selections were incredible and we lined up, single-file, to buy them for our restaurants.”

Bringing his glass to his nose, Madrigale noted the wine’s complex aromas — smoked meat and black peppercorn — and smiled, a hint of nostalgia in his eyes.

“This guy was like the ‘Soup Nazi’ from Seinfeld. When I called him for an order, I wrote down my script of the wines that I wanted and held tight to the page. I didn’t let him engage me in small talk because I knew before I blinked I’d have 10 cases of Saumur-Champigny on my sidewalk the following morning. I spoke in short sentences and stayed on message. He could sell ice to Eskimos. He’d make most sommeliers fax him their wine list and then Bob would decide which wines he felt would make their lists better. Full-on wine dictator-style. And the sommeliers never complained, they felt honored for the privilege.”

Madrigale turned back to the 2006 Patrick Jasmin Côte-Rôtie. “This wine was the last vintage that Chadderdon brought in before he retired — Bob went way back with the Jasmins.”

Patrick Jasmin’s Côte-Rôtie is drawn from 5.3 steeply sloping hectares in the most storied lieux-dits in the northern Rhône — “La Chevalière,” “Les Moutonnes,” “Le Baleyat,” “Côteaux de Tupin,” and “Baudin.”

From a “top-flight, strong year” in Côte-Rôtie that Robert Parker compared to the heralded 1991s. Deep garnet to the rim. The nose unfurls with smoke, pepper, and meat, followed by blackberry, olive, pine needle, and rocky minerality on the palate. Elegant and charming throughout, with fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity into the long finish.

We were only able to get 200 bottles … complete with the Chadderdon import strip. A rare opportunity for WineAccess members to skip the line and savor a selection from the “Soup Nazi’ of fine wine. Just $49 until we run out in a few hours this afternoon, compliments of the #1 sommelier in America, Michael Madrigale.

• ABV 12.50%
• Enjoy right away
• % Syrah