2014 Giovanni Almondo Arneis Bricco delle Ciliegie Roero

Almondo Arneis Bricco delle Ciliegie: Elliot Ness and Al Capone

It was the summer of 2006. We were dining with Gianluca Grasso at Osteria Veglio in La Morra. Before the waiter even handed the talented young winemaker the wine list, Gianluca ordered. “Bricco delle Ciliegie. Two bottles.” It was automatic. If you’re going to spend an evening eating sumptuous Piedmontese cuisine, there’s only one way to begin: a bottle of the magically aromatic Arneis that defines its appellation.

There are a handful of superb European white wine “untouchables.” Most are French. There’s Huet in Vouvray. Jean-Michel Deiss in Alsace. Vincent Dauvissat in Chablis. Jean-Francois Germain in Meursault. In Italy, the list far shorter. Niedrist in Alto Adige. Perhaps Kuenhof. But in Piedmont, there’s just one member of Elliot Ness’s team. His name is Domenico Almondo, the maker of one of the most sought-after bargain whites in Europe, drawn off a single, high-elevation planting called Bricco delle Ciliegie.

We first visited Domenico in the summer of 2007. The charming but understated winemaker was happy to see us. He’d just learned all about WineAccess from his winemaker friends in Barolo, Grasso and Germano. He was even happier to take us on a two-hour tour of the vines, jumping out of the truck at every opportunity to trek up the steep hillsides, going down on one knee to scoop up the earth, then allowing Roero sand to sift through his fingers. Domenico was all smiles until we asked him for a couple pallets of Bricco delle Ciliegie for WineAccess. Then this most charming of Piedmontese winemakers became all business.

“There’s never enough Bricco delle Ciliegie. In Piedmont, it’s embarrassing to say no,” Domenico said. “But we could sell almost the entire production just to the restaurants of the region.” Then he smiled. “Let’s enjoy the gnocchi and not talk business.”

It took four years and four visits. We picked up every dinner tab. We sent wine presents to Roero — Condrieu from Vernay or slate-soil trockens from the Rhine. We pulled out all the stops, and finally, in the spring of 2011, we caught a break. Domenico’s Chicago-based importer was on the ropes. Eighty cases became available. We took them all.

If you’re one of the 1392 WineAccess members who have been socking away a half-dozen bottles each summer, you know all about the Bricco delle Ciliegie’s lemon-lime juiciness, its nuttiness, and the electrifying acidity that so makes Piedmont’s only “untouchable” sing. You may have even posted a rating or review, helped to make this single-vineyard Arneis the #1-rated Italian white in WineAccess history. But unless you purchased Domenico Almondo’s 2008, you have no idea what’s in store with the new release of his 2014 — what the winemaker believes to be his finest vintage of the new millennium.

The 2014 Arneis Bricco delle Ciliegie is brilliant pale-green. Vibrant and zesty aromatically, featuring a mouthwatering mix of ripe citrus, tropical fruit, and orchard fruits. High-toned and juicy on the attack with great mouthfeel, filled with ripe lemon-lime, apricot and a pinch of anise, finishing with terrific crispness and persistence. Drink now-2022.

The 2014 Bricco delle Ciliegie just hit port. As always, the lion’s share of the stateside allocation is ticketed for the likes of Marea, Del Posto (where it’s served by the glass out of magnums!) and Otto. After those guys, WineAccess comes first. 420 bottles are up for grabs. $35 on release. Today $20? Makes us feel like Al Capone. Shipping included on 6.

• ABV 13.00%
• Enjoy right away
• % Other White Varietal