2017 Nervi Conterno Gattinara DOCG

Nervi was already a top estate in the ascendant Alto Piemonte region, and after gaining the guidance of the incomparable Conterno family, their stock is skyrocketing. The 2017 Gattinara shows why this became Roberto Conterno’s “obsession,” a nuanced and focused Nebbiolo that outperforms single-vineyard bottles that cost twice as much.

Nervi typically crafts this 100% Nebbiolo Gattinara along with two single-vineyard bottles, the Valferana ($119) and the Molsino ($111), each worthy of their triple-digit prices. But in 2017, they didn’t bottle the vineyard-designates, so this wine got those sites’ best grapes, and the Gattinara earned its highest-ever score from Vinous, outscoring other vintages of the Valferana and Molsino, but for half the price. 

Barolo and Barbaresco lovers, this one’s for you, a profound Nebbiolo expression that boasts the concentration and complexity of Piedmont’s best, plus a Burgundian levity and precision. Aromas of red cherry, pipe tobacco, rose petal, anise, and cedar uncoil from the glass. The palate is layer after layer of red fruit, wild herb, earth, and spice flavors, all of which linger harmoniously on the finish. 

We couldn’t get enough. And neither could Antonio Galloni, who kicked off that best-ever Vinous review by stating, “The 2017 Gattinara is terrific,” and calling it “an overachieving wine that delivers the goods.” 

Aside from the sheer brilliance of their wines, nothing speaks to Nervi’s greatness like the fact that they captivated Roberto Conterno, who purchased the estate in 2018. The Conterno family are Piedmont legends with numerous 100-point wines and a towering legacy. According to Wine Advocate, “as [Roberto] tells it, Nervi was a sudden obsession that captured his heart and soul with irresistible intensity.” When the Conternos attach their name to an estate, they expect excellence. And with this 2017, Nervi delivers. 

Already a benchmark in Alto Piemonte, Nervi’s star has risen even higher in recent years. The region’s reputation for quality is nothing new: Alto Piemonte was once the seat of Northern Italy’s wine production, home to the world’s most famous Nebbiolos. After World War II, the region fell into a decline that lasted into the 1990s. Over the past 30 years, it has seen a remarkable resurgence, one of the most spectacular comeback stories in modern wine, and Nervi is leading the charge.

Gattinara wines are some of the best in the region, representing “the purest expression of the northern [Piedmont] zones,” according to Vino Italiano authors David Lynch and Joseph Bastianich. Nervi, the area’s oldest estate, represents the best of Gattinara, drawing this wine’s silky tannins and complex aroma from the area’s ancient volcanic soils.

Their 2017 incorporates the top grapes from their esteemed Valferana and Molsino holdings, as well as their Garavoglie and Casacce vineyards, which sit at 950 to 1378 feet in elevation. The grapes are hand-harvested and given 30 months in large oak barrels, developing further depth and nuance.

• Fruit Intensity
• Oak Intensity
• Body
• Acidity
• Tannin

• ABV 14.50%
• 1 hour
• Now – 2036
• % Nebbiolo
• Serving temperature – 60°
• Cork