2002 Ar.Pe.Pe Sassella Riserva Rocce Rosse

A 15-year-old Nebbiolo like no other: Barolo meets Vosne-Romanée

We were in the middle of tasting 50 bottles of 2016 rosé when the Google Alert popped up on our phones: “Eleven Madison Park is the Greatest Restaurant in the World.” The NYC hotspot had been named the Best Restaurant in the World by World’s 50 Best Restaurants, becoming the first American restaurant to grab the No.1 spot since The French Laundry in 2004. Our jaws dropped and a feeling of pride filled the room. We shot a text to the wine director, our friend Cedric Nicaise, to congratulate him on the amazing achievement.

We thought back to our most recent dinner at EMP, where four of us went wild with Cedric’s world-class wine list. First it was 1988 Krug “Collection,” then a bottle of ‘02 Coche-Dury Meursault Perrières. Our first red was an incredible bottle of 1994 Saint-Joseph from Raymond Trollat and next we decided on something Italian. Our young friend was headed to the ultra-luxe Lake Como in the Italian Alps later this year for his honeymoon and he wanted an early primer for wines in the region. We ordered the 2002 Ar.Pe.Pe. Valtellina Sassella Riserva Rocce Rosse, and we were absolutely knocked out.

Ar.Pe.Pe gets its unusual name from owner and creator Arturo Pelizzatti Perego. The historic winery is one of the most respected in the Valtellina. Nebbiolo grown in this mountainous region of northwestern Italy, which sits between Lake Como and the border of Switzerland, is a bit more floral and refined than your average Nebbiolo from the Langhe.

Ar.Pe.Pe. specializes in two terroirs within the Valtellina: Sassella and Grumello. Grumello’s soils are mostly slate and limestone while Sassella is based on red rocks and clay. The 2002 Ar.Pe.Pe Sassella Riserva Rocce Rosseis from a single plot of red granite near the top of the Sassella cru. This is the family’s favorite wine and is hands-down the greatest example of old-school mountain Nebbiolo from Valtellina. Nothing is rushed during élevage. The wine sees a long maceration in large vats and is aged in chestnut botti grandi for four years before sitting in bottle in their cantina until they feel the time is right.

The 2002 Valtellina Superiore Sassella Riserva Rocce Rosse has a beautiful nose of red cherry rose petal, mint, tobacco, and blood orange give the wine its sensual and elegant personality. Medium in body, persistent with laser-like focus, the 2002 is a Riserva that speaks with power and finesse. The wine is very expressive right now and will drink for another 20 years.

A first encounter with the wines of Ar.Pe.Pe at the Greatest Restaurant in the World — we won’t shake that memory anytime soon. Antonio Galloni was floored, too: “A wine for lovers of classic, traditionally made Nebbiolo, the 2002 Rocce Rosse delivers the goods, and then some.” Before tacking on 96 points, the Vinous founder concluded with this simple plea: “Don’t miss it.”

Only 50 cases made it stateside and all we could scrape together was 300 bottles. Perfectly aged, direct-from-the-cellar alpine Nebbiolo that tastes like the love child of Vosne-Romanée and Barolo. This is your only chance at this rare jewel — $89 — and it won’t last the day.

• ABV 14.00%
• Enjoy right away
• % Nebbiolo